THIS IS FINDON VILLAGE — www.findonvillage.com created by Valerie Martin, contains scenes from her home village of Findon, West Sussex, U.K.

1918 — The first Mystery Tower can be seen in the background under construction.  

The photograph is from Turberville Wharf in Shoreham Harbour with the Petrol Distribution Station on the Lower Brighton road in the foreground.    A petrol tanker is driving out of the gates, with another in the yard.

GIANTS CODE NAMED M-N SEEN ON THE MOVE FROM FINDON

Copyright Valerie Martin 2004

By the end of the summer in 1916, it was estimated that some 15,000 inhabitants had signed up for active service at the nearby Recruiting Office in Worthing.   9,000 of these were men from the borough and the rest from surrounding districts, including the village of Findon.   

Mr and Mrs H.R.P. Wyatt of Cissbury House in Nepcote were to lose their second son during this year, Lieutenant Hugh Wyatt of the Sussex yeomanry, succumbed to an infection of the digestive system resulting in severe diarrhea and known as dysentery  while serving in Alexandria.    Lieutenant Geoffrey Wyatt, of the Buffs, was killed in action.   He was said to be shot in the back by a hidden German machinegun.

During the First World War the Admiralty became alarmed by the many losses of allied merchant shipping to the German U-boats.   In 1916 they evolved a hush-hush plan to erect a series of twelve giant tower constructions across the Straits of Dover (between Dungeness and Cap Gris Nez) as an anti-submarine defence scheme.   Linking them were to be steel boom anti-submarine nets to block the path of any lurking German U-boats.  Guns mounted on the towers and surrounding mines were intended to protect the constructions from enemy intervention.  It was thought that any U-boats could be located, trapped and disposed of while attempting to slip unnoticed between the English Channel and the North Sea.

The proposal was promptly given government sanction and under the allocated code name M-N, a budget was allocated for the construction of the first two towers.   Top secret detailed plans were drawn up.   It was at this point voiced that Shoreham had suitable calm waters for the monumental plan.

Two years later, in June 1918, a detachment of Royal Engineers (who would supervise the creation of the giant construction), duly arrived in Sussex and an encampment was built on Southwark Green.   They were sworn to the utmost secrecy.  The mysterious massive building project began on the south side of the Shoreham Harbour.  It was just a little east of the lighthouse.

The building of the twin giant curiosities was at last under way and within a few weeks there was something to show in the way of two steel towers, each mounted on a gigantic concrete platform — a fascinating honeycomb in a hexagonal shape took shape.   It rose in narrow stages (rather resembling a fanciful multi-tiered wedding cake for a bride).  

What a spectacle....... the towers being constructed at night.   While the inhabitants slept safely in their beds, the naval giants glowed in the darkness.   Although, close up, I cannot see anyone actually working.


 

6th May 2006

Valerie, just been reading your account of the construction of the Nab towers.

You make the comment that there is no-one visible in the night pictures of the construction.

The reason for this is that the pictures will have required a long exposure (possibly reaching into minutes) in order to register the images on film.

Any object that was moving during this time would almost certainly not have registered on the film, and this would have included workers on the project.

I hope this explains for you the missing builders.

Best regards,

Phil Passmore

 

 

3,000 civilians and/or 5,000 army personnel were working on the giants at times.

 

The towers under construction  Dredger D.W. No.23 is next to one of them.

The steel sections were 100 feet high themselves.  Submarine detection equipment was installed for which there was a special electricity generating facility.  The cost of the first 92 ft. steel towers was astronomical and had already escalated to phenomenal £2.5 million.   Eyebrows were raised as this was a staggering amount when the average worker's wage on the job at the time was less than £2 a week.   It was thought probable that production of the remaining giants might be aborted on the account of the expenditure alone. 

Shoreham's Mystery Towers under construction.

 

Here's another photograph of the mighty construction.   This shows the observation platform and side cranes.

The men at the top...... who obviously did not suffer from vertigo...

 

The public were still unsure what was going on.    The giants were clearly visible from the Littlehampton seafront to the west and Beachy Head to the East.  They became known as "Shoreham's Mystery Towers" and speculation was rife.   Stories even appeared on the other side of the Atlantic in the New York press speculating on their presence.  No one managed to guess their real purpose.

On 11th November 1918 as the first of the ominous giants neared completion, the need for their creation was terminated by the stroke of a pen when the Armistice was signed and the First World War ended.   The giants were suddenly superfluous to requirements.  Official secrecy still remained as to the reason for their construction and it was another couple of years before the true story about Shoreham's Mystery Towers trickled out to the public's ears. It was then revealed that the steel upper half of the gargantuan construction would have accommodated up to a hundred men.

c. 1918 — A paddle steamer passes by the twin sister towers.

 

c.1918

 

c.1918

As the war suddenly came to a conclusion, the giants were immediately redundant and by 1920 there was no longer much interest in them not even as a tourist attraction.

 

 The Kingston Lighthouse (built in 1846) and the towers.
 

 

Eventually there someone had a brainwave suggesting how to utilise one of the two giants. The lightship that had been marking the dangerous Nab Rock to the south-west of Bembridge on the Isle of Wight, was reaching the end of its life.    Someone, somewhere said

"Why not replace it with one of these  giants at Shoreham sitting on its massive raft of concrete?".

There were nods of approval all round and the Admiralty offered the use of five tugs to tow one of the completed giant to a new abode.   This is how on Sunday, 12th September 1920, there was a strange sight for anyone looking out to see from the Findon downland as the giant departed through the mouth of the Shoreham Harbour (witnessed by thousands).   What a sight it must have been from the summit of Cissbury Ring above Findon.   The whole operation was a magnificent feat of navigation as well as a spectacle as the giant commenced its 41 mile journey.

17th August 1920 — You can just see the towers on the left horizon.

The photograph is of the Ferrymen's Children's Treat, Shoreham-by-Sea.  The ferrymen are taking children from local Children's Home to Bramber in small rowing boats for their annual treat.

 

A watercolour of the towers dated 1920

 

1920 — One of the towers is decorated with flags in this photograph.   I think it maybe ready for the "off" to Portsmouth.   The lighthouse can be seen in the background.

 

1920 — Ready to sail.

 

1920

Can you imagine 10,000 tons of steel atop 20,000 tons of concrete slipping through the harbour with the barest margin on either side of the harbour wall?

1920

 

This is from a painting of the towing scene on 12th September 1920.

 

The real thing the tower leaving Shoreham Harbour heading for Portsmouth on 12th September 1920

It is a wonder that the cumbersome convoy ever arrived at is destination — but it did.    The journey was witnessed by almost everyone living along the coastline as they watched the progress of the giant to its new resting place. 

As the newly christened Nab Tower settled onto a sand spit close to the Rock, the valves were opened to allow sea water to flood the vast tanks.   With dignitaries standing on top of the tower, it slowly sank to its resting place with a final groan and jerk  — resulting in a three degree tilt from the vertical, leaning to the north-east. 

Giant No. 2 still stood forlornly and unwanted in Shoreham Harbour for a few more years.   It was finally dismantled in 1924 but only when the Shoreham Harbour Trustees threatened to charge the government of the day with harbour dues.   It took some nine months to demolish longer than it had taken to construct.

It was reported at the time that it was just as well that it was not needed to be floated as well as it was in fact  6 ft. too wide to pass through the harbour mouth.    The broken up concrete from the construction was reputedly eventually used as foundations for the local building trade — including those of glass houses in Worthing for the agricultural trade.

In its new capacity off the Isle of Wight (with its unnerving angle) the Nab Tower was manned by a crew of four.   The 30,000 tons of steel and concrete still tilts in that direction to this day, but like all of Britain's lighthouses is now unmanned and is fully automated.   

During the Second World War, the Nab Tower was armed with twin 40 mm Bofors and these were credited with bringing down three and a half German aircraft..    I would explain here, that the "half" was shared with a passing ship who assisted in blasting the enemy out of the sky..

 

 

6th May 2004

H
i Valerie,

Nab Tower

 
I was stunned to read your article about the Nab Tower - in 1966, I was appointed as Supernumerary Assistant Keeper (Trinity House) to the Nab for two months!
 
Best wishes,
 
John Trotter
 

John Trotter, Brisbane, Australia.

 

Oh John, you pop up in the most surprising places!   

John was originally from Middlesbrough and was a Radio Officer for about twenty-five years.   He did his tickets in Grimsby and Hull and started out fishing.  Then he joined the Merchant Navy.

 

8th May 2004

Hi Valerie,

The Nab Moves.....

 
Still collecting my thoughts, but in the meantime check out

Newsreel from British Pathe Low Resolution

- British Pathe News film of Nab Tower being towed into position - amazing!

 
John
 

John Trotter, Brisbane, Australia.

 

John wondered if I would like any of his memories of life on the Nab Tower.   Needless to say, I jumped at his offer..... and here are his thoughts.....

                                                   

The Nab

 The Nab Tower lighthouse at Spithead was owned by the Admiralty and run by an even older organisation, Trinity House, the lighthouse authority for England, Wales and the Channel Islands. In 1966, I was a Supernumerary Assistant Keeper, as trainees were known, and was appointed to the Nab, my third light. At 18, I was the youngest keeper in the country.

The Nab was designated as a “Rock Station” (nothing to do with music, although it was made of “heavy metal”), it was mounted on a concrete base which lifted up unnervingly in the frequent English Channel gales.

As on all such lights, there were three keepers, a Principal and two Assistants, each serving two months on and one month off. I was replacing one of the Assistants.

The working hours were divided up into watches as on board a ship.

One of the other keepers was from Penzance and spent his spare time with a production line of ships in bottles. He made models of the “Cutty Sark” in Dimple Haig bottles, 10 at a time, and sold them in a souvenir shop as being made by “the Keeper of the Eddystone Light”. Only a white lie - he had worked there previously.

Another Keeper was from the Worthing area, maybe even Findon!  Unfortunately, I don’t recall his name but he’d spent World War II as a Radio Officer in the Merchant Navy and inspired me to return to my studies for that occupation.

At that time, rather than the present large light atop the tower, there were four small lights spaced around the perimeter of the tower. These lights had a rotating lens which produced the requisite flash characteristic. The lens was rotated by a clockwork  mechanism which required winding up.  On stormy nights, we had to crawl on hands and knees between the lights to keep the lenses turning without being blown away.  There was also a fog horn which bugged the keepers even more than it did the good folk of Bembridge on the Isle of Wight.

In addition to normal pay, for me about 11 pounds per week, we were paid a daily victualling allowance and each keeper purchased his own food from a grocery shop near the Trinity House depot in Cowes.  These provisions were delivered monthly by the Trinity House ship which brought the relieving keepers.  Not running out of food was a fine art and I recall spoiling myself with Jaffa Cakes, of which I was inordinately fond.  Needless to say, that was before I discovered gin!

Each keeper took it in turns to be the cook for the day.  The cook would provide the vegetables for lunch and each man provided his own meat.  Some of the keepers were quite talented, particularly considering that cooking was done on a coal fired range.  This may or may not have been an Aga, nobody worried about “country-house-chic” in those days.  My culinary skills were still developing and I was such a fan of the Great British Chip that I’d been named “Square-arse Jack” on my previous light.  As there was no way of getting fresh bread, each keeper baked his own, often on the night watch, and it was extremely pleasant dropping off to sleep with the smell of baking wafting in from the next room.

In addition to the light and fog horn, there was also a Radio Beacon, for Radio Direction Finding by ships – a now obsolete navigational aid.  The beacon transmitted during fog and for an hour or so each day at pre-ordained times.  Ships were required to calibrate their Direction Finding equipment yearly and this was done by going round a visible beacon and comparing the radio bearings with the visual bearings.  Ships requiring this service booked the use of the Nab’s beacon and during my time the “Queen Mary”, icon of the British Merchant Navy and soon to become a Pizza Parlour in California, used our service prior to heading off for New York.

I also recall almost becoming a victim of “friendly fire” one day.   We had to regularly spread lime on the concrete base in order to keep down the barnacles and other sea-life.  This had to be done at low tide as the base was underwater at other times.   I was performing this task when a group of frigates came charging out of  Portsmouth at about 40 knots, creating a wall of water rushing towards me.   I got as high up the framework round the tower as I could, but still copped a soaking.   Since we were flying signal flags for “Do not pass at speed”, the Principal Keeper put in a complaint to the Captain of the Dockyard and for a fair while afterwards, the naval ships called on the radio for permission to pass, which was smugly granted.

Another of our duties was taking meteorological readings and forwarding them to the Met Office.   Coastal weather reports were based on this information and broadcast by the BBC for sea areas “Dover, Wight, Plymouth, Fishnet, Stocking, etc”.

Each rock lighthouse was provided with a bottle of rum to be used in extreme emergencies.   To my knowledge they were never opened, I never even got any following my encounter with the Royal Navy!   Trinity House Elder Brethren, who made an annual inspection, boarded the lights and their first task was to check that the seal on the rum wasn’t broken.   There were tales that each bottle was full of cold tea, but I doubt it.   On the sad day in 1983, when the keepers left for the last time, I hope they made the most of it!

 

 

 

21st March 2005

 Hi Valerie,



 

Attached is the photo promised ages ago - I was reminded by your mention of the Twin Towers of Shoreham.

It shows me at Anvil Point Lighthouse (on the cliffs above Tilly Wim caves, near Swanage, Dorset) in about 1967.  I think it was taken just after the annual inspection by the Trinity House Elder Brethren. Either that or preparing to regale the visitors with salty tales in exchange for a half-crown donation!

The chap who scanned the photo for me said it looked like someone off the"Titanic", so I told him it was my Grandfather.

Best wishes, John
 

John Trotter, Brisbane, Australia.

 

 

So this is how the Nab Tower became the only remaining tower of the original fourteen to be ordered to form a chain of anti-submarine defence forts across the Channel.

The Nab Tower was put to the ultimate test in more recent years (November 1999) when the 10,288 dwt freighter DOLE AMERICA collided with it laden with a cargo of pineapples and bananas.   The vessel suffered damage and only avoided sinking by running aground and the Nab Tower was severely damaged.    Later both were successfully repaired.


29th December 2006.

Dear Valerie, (if I may),

Just a note to thank you for your interesting article on the 'Mystery Towers'.

My father wanted to find out about them as my grandfather actually worked on them, so I started doing a bit of searching on the Internet and came across your site.

My grandfather was a self-employed joiner in Cumbria (then Cumberland) and was apparently in charge of one of the shuttering gangs who worked on the project. He died over 30 years ago and never really talked about his work at Shoreham - possibly he thought that it still had to remain a secret! - so we are grateful that you have taken the time and effort to put this story in the public eye.

Again, many thanks.

Kind regards,

Stephen Johnston


 

Did you know that you can see the Nab Lighthouse from Findon?  Below is the view over West Hill from the Western Escarpment of Cissbury Ring one evening in August 2006.....

The Isle of Wight can be seen as a whale-like hump in the distance and the Nab Lighthouse is to be seen to the left.   OS reference SZ740 860.

Continue if you would like to read Hot Potatoes — The Women's Village Council — 1918

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This is Findon Village — www.findonvillage.com is a continually growing record created by Valerie Martin exclusively for documenting life in Findon.

E-mail: valeriemartin@findonvillage.com