This website created by Valerie Martin, contains scenes from her home village of Findon, West Sussex, U.K.

PASSING THROUGH FINDON IN DECEMBER

 

The Gun Inn, December 1997.

Copyright Valerie Martin 1998

Text first Published in Along The Furlong, December, l998.

Gilbert White is one of my favourite characters of the past. He could be described as one of the first tourists and was, no doubt, dubbed a "furiner" when his coach bowled into Findon in December 1773. The rumble of the wheels in The Square would have brought ragged boys from all directions.

Pen and ink sketch of Gilbert White the pioneer naturalist.

By permission of The British Library.

I have unearthed the only two surviving sketches of Gilbert White. This maybe because he was shy and did not like sitting for his portrait. Or because he had suffered from small pox in the autumn of 1747 and his face may have been pock marked and so he declined from being portrayed. He has been described as 5 t. 3 in. tall and "a little, thin, prim upright man". So anyone in The Square would, no doubt, would have seen a traveller with a long nose, wearing a powdered wig, stretching and alighting at the Gun Inn, clearly glad to be out of the confines of the carriage. This would have been a closed, four wheeled horse-drawn vehicle used as a rapid means for transporting mail and passengers across country, and lurching over every pothole and rut it passed.

Gilbert White

By permission of The British Library.

Gilbert was born in Selborne, amidst the chalk downs of Hampshire, on 18th July 1720. He went to university and took holy orders, and was offered various positions. His dream was to return to Selborne, and eventually he became curate there. However, his first love was always that of natural history. These were days of tranquillity as he sat in his study surrounded by books, a pioneer naturalist of his time, recognising the dependence of living things upon each other. He has been called the first ecologist, but saw himself as a scientist, making and testing theories, and recording observations such as the arrival and departure dates of migrant birds. His Selborne residence is now a museum.

Gilbert White working in his garden from an interesting little illustration by Eric Ravilious.  (More on the depicted tortoise, Timothy, in the next article).

Gilbert was a cheery and genial companion, and communicated his findings to others and gained a good reputation. He later retrieved the letters he had written and called the collected manuscripts "The Natural History and Antiquities of Selborne".  It is a compilation of 110 letters to two of Gilbert's friends and this book made him famous near the end of his days in 1789.  It is one of the best-selling books of all time and is generally regarded as the first work of its type.   The book is based largely on Gilbert's original observations and includes such topics as the mysteries of migration.   An end-to-end read would be an endurance test through every letter and would be hard going (as Gilbert's language is rather on the tight side and full of Latin words) — but by careful selection one can appreciate the writer's sharp mind and lively eighteenth century sense of humour.

Sketch of Gilbert's 18th century country home, "The Wakes" in Selborne.

 

A glimpse into the kitchen where the servants prepared Gilbert's meals while he wrote.

 

 

A peep into Gilbert's bedroom.

 

Holding memories of yesteryear —Gilbert's parlour.

Gilbert resided in Selborne for a quarter of a century, and many times made the 40-mile bumpy journey to Findon. He then continued 25 miles eastwards along the ridge of the downs to Delves House in Ringmer to visit his Aunt Rebecca. She had the quaint name of Rebecca Snooke, and no doubt looked forward to her nephew’s visits, especially at Christmas.

In the 1700s, coaching was hazardous, and travel was a serious business. There was a grave likelihood of being held up by highwaymen, outlaws or road agents. Prayers were said and wills were often written before venturing forth on a journey such as Gilbert undertook from Selborne.

Although the age of horse-drawn transportation was in its hey-day, journeys were tedious. Coach springing was not invented until the latter part of the 1700s, when travel improved. Gilbert's rattling conveyance would have often been uncomfortably crowded; in summer the atmosphere would have been oppressive inside the jogging vehicle traversing the downs. Mist and sun smeared the windows, and if one sash was lowered, someone always complained about the draught.

Ten miles per hour, including changing horses, would have been a good pace when maintained for thirty miles, with a heavy passenger coach. The difficulty in timekeeping on the Findon country roads can be left to the imagination. Many a coach was bogged down in the ruts as it plied across the Findon Downs and had to be dragged out by pinched and shrivelled coachmen hunched against the weather.

Each coach arrival in Findon brought a small measure of excitement. Any passing vagabonds would join in the general pandemonium looking for a chance to pick a pocket or two. There would have been chickens half-heartedly pecking for grit in The Square, and great bawls of laughter amidst the jolly hubbub inside the bustling inn. Mine Host usually appeared in the doorway of the great posting and coaching-house to chat with the driver and groom.

Gilbert's spirits would have risen when he alighted at the Gun Inn, staggering from the coach and ready to drop with fatigue. He had probably received no sustenance on the journey to warm the cockles of his heart. After slithering, sliding and lurching along the narrow chalky tracks on the downs in December, our dust-booted traveller would have soon been luxuriously grasping a fresh-drawn tankard of frothing ale. Perhaps he was offered a tasty neck of boiled veal, or pickled sea trout and prawns, a saddle of mutton from the neighbouring downs, beef broth or gammon of bacon, or a roast fowl of some kind, washed down by a seductive wine.

Some five minutes before departure the guard on the coach would most likely sing out "Coach!" as a signal for the passengers to take their places. The coachman gathered up the reins and whip, and mounted the box. "Hold fast!" They would depart with the wheels whirring as the coach left The Square. In busy areas the horn would be sounded, but on the quiet Findon roads the coach could travel for miles without needing to announce its presence.

Gilbert obviously appreciated the wintry Findon views from his carriage as upon arriving in Ringmer on Thursday 9th December 1773, he wrote...

 

Though I have now travelled the Sussex Downs upwards of 30 years, yet I still investigate that chain of majestic mountains with fresh admiration year by year; and think I see new beauties every time I traverse it.

 

 Another notation that Christmastide read…

 

As you pass along you command a noble view of the wild, or Weald, on one hand.... For my part I think there is something peculiarly sweet and amusing in the shapely-figured aspect of chalk hills.

 

The downs around Findon can now perhaps be viewed as "amusing and shapely figures" — as indeed they are. A further observant note that December, tells us…

 

The Parish Well at Findon, is 200 ft. At Montham, (now spelt Muntham), on the Downs, the Well is full 350 ft.

 

As this was worth a mention in his writings, it is assumed he alighted at the Gun Inn for refreshment and took some interest in the water from the well, together with the measurement of its depth. The well was situated where the twentieth century toilets later stood!

Now open to the public — Gilbert White's Selborne home, The Wakes, just over the border in Hampshire in 1999.

Gilbert did not always travel the road by coach.   He disliked them and often travelled by horseback.

The nature-loving, all-observing, Gilbert White ailed in his 70s and became deaf, which bothered him exceedingly, and he died on Wednesday 26th June 1793. He is buried in Selborne with great modesty on the north side of the churchyard, which was thought to be the least favoured part of the grounds. So humble was his burial that the church authorities have now erected directional signs to enable visitors to find his grave. A very small headstone bears the inscription —

G.W.

26th June 1793

and is all that is left to remind us of a man who frequented Findon some two and a quarter centuries ago. The gentle naturalist, who passed through our village of Findon so many centuries ago, sleeps his long sleep.

Tea may be enjoyed now in the heart of Old Selborne in the elegant Tea Parlour of the house decorated and furnished in the style of the days of its 18th century owner, Gilbert White.

Continue if you would like to read Timothy Passes Through Findon.

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This is Findon Village — www.findonvillage.com is a continually growing record created by Valerie Martin exclusively for documenting life in Findon.

E-mail: valeriemartin@findonvillage.com